Flashback Friday: Southern Nova Scotia Adventure

Day 4: Lunenburg to Halifax

Although Lunenburg is pretty close to Halifax, we avoided the Highway 103 option as the 3 sticks close and takes in all the lovely  towns along the Chester Basin. As with the rest of the tour to date, the day was sunny, there were sailboats bobbing in the harbours, and the buildings we rode by boasted hundreds of years of history. You might not realize it, but this area was one of the earliest in North America to be settled by the Europeans and it offers up reminders of its past in the many small towns and villages along the coast. One such historical oddity can be found at Oak Island, shrouded in legend for having been the spot where a large amount of treasure was buried, or not, depending on what you want to believe.

Hoping to take a look at the place, and maybe, with a little luck, strike it rich, we detoured to take a look. As it happens it turns out there’s actually a reality TV show on air these days, featuring wannabe treasure-seekers and their attempt to solve the mystery that goes back to the 18th century. Is there really gold in the Money Pit? I doubt it. I’ve had a few money pits in my life (an XS650, a couple of Silver Wings), and none of them contained any gold. After being chased off by TV producers, we headed north, but it looked like we’d headed far south. I’m used to riding around the murky waters of the Bay of Fundy, but the beaches along the edge of St. Margarets Bay had white sand and turquoise waters that look straight from the Caribbean. On this day, one of the first warm ones of the spring, a few brave souls even had beach towels stretched out on the sand. I was wishing I’d brought my trunks too, but ‘Arris cracked the whip and we pointed our bikes towards Peggy’s Cove.

There, we snapped the obligatory pictures, gawked at all the gawkers, and hit the road again. It’s a cool spot, for sure, but there are so many tourists around it’s hard to get a photo of the area without some other photo-snapper getting in your way. It’s worth the stop if you’re in the area, but there are other towns further south on the coast that are picturesque as well, but don’t have busloads of tourists rolling in every couple minutes. Cape Forchu, in particular, comes to mind, though legend has it that UFOs will nobble  a Ducati and make it into a money pit.

The tour ended in Halifax with our first taste of rain after a cloudless few days of glorious riding. Although we’d both been tainted by our previous experiences on the boring 103 highway to Yarmouth, the northern edged tranquil Annapolis Valley followed by the rugged southern Atlantic coast that make up the Lighthouse Route had proven to not only be free of dragons but a must do in any rider’s bucket list. Now why are we based in New Brunswick again?

Eats: Lunenburg Arms, Trellis Cafe, Henry House Accommodations: Lord Nelson Hotel View CMG Spring Tour, Day 4 in a larger map

THANKS TO:

• Nova Scotia Tourism Agency, for arranging hotels and paying for our food.
• Ducati, for delivering a Multistrada to Editor ‘Arris’s door
• Suzuki, for letting us take a V-Strom 1000 on this romp
• BMW, for our long-termer F800GS

GALLERY

Check out all the pics that go with this story! Click on the main sized pic to transition to the next or just press play to show in a slideshow.

Eyeing Cape Blomidon. Photo: Rob Harris

On the 101, just outside Wolfville. Like all highways, it’s not terribly exciting, although in some parts the scenery actually beats the secondary roads with their views of front lawn after front lawn. Once you’re clear of towns, though, that’s mostly done with. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

‘Arris and Kurylyk show blatant disregard of signage. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Leaving Wolfville, we were soon in the heart of the Annapolis Valley. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

‘Arris and Uhlarik are ‘appy in the Annapolis Valley. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Even in rural Nova Scotia, ‘Arris managed to find Euro-style dining. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Unique eateries are abundant in the larger towns in rural Nova Scotia. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The view from Annapolis Royal. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The Cape Forchu lighthouse is a must-do if you’re in the Yarmouth area. The view is fantastic, and the roads to get there are a real treat. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The Cape Forchu lighthouse is a must-stop photo op. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The high tides in Yarmouth mean wharves are taller than the ones seen further up the outer coast. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The V-Strom 1000 proved a welcome addition to the tour fleet. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

While this would be a busy spot during the middle of the fishing season, things were quiet when we stopped by. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The final destination for many lobsters. Unless, of course, you count a dinner plate. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

A fisherman’s barge near Cape Forchu. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Seaside oxidization, outside Yarmouth. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

‘Arris moves the Ducati, without the proximity key fob in his possession. This could have caused the subsequent electronic gremlins. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Buoys, outside Yarmouth. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

“Ha! Ha! Won’t Kurylyk be upset when this bike won’t start for him!” – Uhlarik and ‘Arris congratulate themselves on their always-reliable mounts. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Speeding tickets are expensive in Nova Scotia, but thankfully the RCMP seems to mostly stick to the 100-series highways. You’re less likely to be pulled over on a back road.

Much of the Lighthouse Route is actually inland of the coast, but little side roads will take you down to scenic coastal views. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The V-Strom gets a taste of Nova Scotia asphalt. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

‘Arris flogs the Ducati along the back roads. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Roadside in Nova Scotia. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Shelburne’s dory museum takes you back to a time when fishing was a man-powered operation. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

This memorial in Shelburne shows the dangers of earning a living at sea. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Tucked in for the night at the White Point Beach Resort. Why can’t every tour be like this? Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Cottages at White Point. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The lodge at White Point, rebuilt after a fire in 2011. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

White Point. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The waves at White Point have brought visitors for decades. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Sunrise at White Point. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The coast at White Point. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Sunrise at White Point. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The beach at White Point. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Sunrise at White Point. There are worse views to wake up to. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

We stayed in condo-style cottage accomodations at White Point, but they also have individual buildings for guests. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Photo: Zac Kurylyk

‘Arris finds a diversion from the main route. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Lobster fishermen had landed their traps for the year. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

‘Arris ponders a career in fishing. Photo: Zac Kurylyk.

A short day allowed us to explore more of the coastline’s nooks and crannies. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Most of Rt. 3 doesn’t have coastal views, but you don’t need to detour far (usually, a couple minutes at most) to see wharves and lighthouses, etc. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Scenic coastline south of Halifax. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Rob inspects his dinged-up front wheel. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

For some reason, there are a lot of twisty roads around the Bridgwater area. Be sure to bring plenty of cash if you plan to take the LaHave ferry. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Most of Nova Scotia’s small towns have something to do if you want a break from riding for a while. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The Multistrada’s full luggage came in handy for hauling cameras, electronic equipment and all the other stuff necessary for a full-on journalistic trip. Photo: Rob Harris

The road to Wolfville from Sackville, NB, was plenty of fun as well; we stuck to the Fundy coast for the view and the curves. Photo: Rob Harris

There’s bumpy pavement in southern Nova Scotia, but it never lasts long enough to ruin your day. Most of the roads were in surprisingly good condition when compared to neighbouring provinces. Photo: Rob Harris

Just outside Wolfville. In this area, you still see the tidal flats that typify the Fundy region. Photo: Rob Harris

The Annapolis Valley’s curves usually have good visibility and decent pavement. Photo: Rob Harris

We managed to hit the Annapolis Valley during the middle of apple blossom season. Photo: Rob Harris

Ah, yes, our wives always said we’d end up there … Photo: Rob Harris

Fun times in the Annapolis Valley. Photo: Rob Harris

The rising hills on both sides of the Annapolis Valley make great views, and bring a micro-climate that benefits local farmers. Photo: Rob Harris

Wise words, for those of you considering a trip to southernNova Scotia. Photo: Rob Harris

Lunchtime in Annapolis Royal. Photo: Rob Harris

This lighthouse in Gilberts Cove, just south of Digby, gave a beautiful view of St. Mary’s Bay.

Those aluminum panniers sure look waterproof, but if you bang them up a bit, they can be leaky.

The sporty rubber and 17-inch front wheel meant the ‘Strada stuck to pavement on this trip. Photo: Rob Harris

The Multistrada and V-Strom both had a little more power than the GS, but weren’t quite as well-suited to the bumpier roads. Photo: Rob Harris

Sadly, there were no little green men around to give us answers about the Shag Harbour UFO Incident. Photo: Rob Harris

The F800, Multistrada and V-Strom were perfect mounts for this trip. Photo: Rob Harris

Where next? Photo: Rob Harris

Try as we could, Rob and I still didn’t make it to the Wall of Shame. Photo: Rob Harris

Zac finds the treasure of Oak Island. Photo: Rob Harris

Follow these signs for a good ride. Photo: Rob Harris

The Trellis Cafe lunch stop.

People were actually hitting the beaches by the time we neared Halifax, a sure sign that summer was just around the corner. Photo: Rob Harris

The much-photographed lighthouse in Peggys Cove. Photo: Rob Harris.

The obligatory Peggys Cove shot. Photo: Rob Harris

We lined up a Multistrada and a V-Strom 1000 and pressed Rob’s long-term GS800 into duty for this trip. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

No, that’s not the set of a Connery-era Bond flick. That’s a tidal generating station. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The LaHave ferry is an expensive ride. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Lunenburg’s historic waterfront view. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The Lunenburg Arms, where we stayed, was a converted boarding house that dated far, far back in history. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

UNESCO funding means Lunenburg’s architecture hasn’t changed much. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Nighttime in Lunenburg. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The docks in Lunenburg. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

This large Catholic church dominating the skyline in the Acadian region between Weymouth and Yarmouth almost tricks you into thinking you’re in Quebec. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

A boat repair yard just outside Church Point. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Sunset in Yarmouth. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

That ferry ain’t cheap, and the ferryman keeps you waiting until everyone else leaves. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Nighttime in Lunenburg. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

Walk around Lunenburg, and you see plenty of beautiful old-school fishing town architecture. Photo: Zac Kurylyk

The waters around St. Margarets Bay are a surprisingly beautiful turquoise hue, like something you’d see in the Caribbean. Photo: Zac Kurylyk